AW16 / DESERTER
Yugoslav Kingdom, 31st December, 1937
On 31st of December families and friends were saying goodbye to the last day of the year. However in the air there was the wind of the upcoming war, the good mood was overshadowed by the fear of the escape and uncertainty.
The AW16 collection of ZSIGMOND DORA menswear was inspired by the escape of the designer’s great-grandmother from Yugoslavia to Hungary.
The DESERTER collection is portraying the escape of the great grandmother’s family and the decision of the people choosing the Hungarian nationality.
The romantic family moment was crashed by uncertainty of the escape. The collection reflects to the feeling of panic, escape and insecurity. The complex silhouettes reflect to the layered clothing of the refugees. The comfortable under layers - shirts, jumpers, turtleneck sweaters - are made from soft cotton, wool and lurex, also sparkling and bright, give a festival character to the collection. The tones of the lower layers are green, indigo, black and silvery grey. The glamour comes up as association of the festive mood. The uplifted ambience is boosted by the unique, handmade, embroidered, pulsating details.
The logical structure of the material selection consists of shimmering, elaborated, and shielding silhouettes like wool wadded jackets, hooded, waterproof parkas. The pieces of the upper layers are dirty grey, deep claret and black toned which are reflecting to the sense of anxiety and deportation.
The ideas of the designer derive from the tragic, distress feelings. During the designing process the re-interpretation of the objects came to the front. The importance of unnecessary objects’ disposal, the real values, the protection and the transmitting of spiritual souvenirs are the lessons of the season.
hair stylist Zoltán Tóth
makeup artist Dóri Lázár
model Dani Vass