SS17 Commune Look book
How Y and Z generations build their relationship towards the soviet era and its memories.
The 2017 spring-summer collection was inspired by our soviet heritage. Dora’s attention was caught by how Y and Z generations build their relationship towards the soviet era and its memories. The base of her thoughts was the phenomenon of the generation gap and the main question was how does the post-soviet generation deal with the vestiges of the socialism. The young intellectuals born after the closure of the soviet era react to its heritage in an interesting way: they get used to it, or they don’t get used to it, they interpret it, sometimes they reject it, but after all mostly they build it in their own aesthetics. The socialist realism was part of our parents’ and grandparents’ life, with an ordinary meaning of their visual surroundings, but the youth mentioned above takes it as the part of our history. But not only they acknowledge it, but reinterprets it and uses its aesthetics and functions. This is true especially for the Z generation which exceeded with leisure elegance the pejorative meanings of the socialist era, and spleen into fusion, giving an opportunity of rebirth of its visuals in a modern way. This gesture is the main inspirational power of the collection.
Similar thoughts lay in the work of the Russian photographer, Egor Rogalev. His series called Synchronicity had a huge impact on Dora’s designing process. The photos showcase the lives of the first post-soviet generation, who have a retrospective vision on the norms and rules of socialism. The atmosphere of these photos truly influenced the use of colors of the collection, which – material wise as well – is defined by the nature. Simple tones appear on the pieces: black, grey, raw colors, brown, khaki, ochre, off-white. These tones are completed with peach echo and rose-quartz.
Raw textures play an important role in the collection, thus cotton and linen are the main materials used. Waterproof jackets give a progressive move to the natural mood, making the line of materials used diverse.
The designs and shapes are reflected by the social realist statues simple, minimalistic style. The pieces of the collection can be defined by the comfortable, loose forms. Designing functional and wearable clothes is always an important standpoint for the designer which are accompanied by rich, spectacular handcrafted details. This season is defined by an old handcraft technique: macramé. Macramé appears in a novel interpretation: it is used as the harness. Another stitching technique is also used by the designer. Both techniques function as sticking together the pieces of materials. This manipulations have not just functional, but symbolical importance. They symbolize the inhesion of past and present. The memories, subjects, pieces of art are here to stay as a strong and indelible bond between our past and present. It’s a sin to cease or cover them, instead they have to be used and looked at the right way in building our future. The macramé harness’ end left free is the emblem of the free thinking, symbolizing the importance of the freedom of thought.
photo _ Péter Lestár
hair _ Norbi Kozma
MUA _ Dóri Lázár
model _ Dani Vass _ Icon Model Management
vegetation _ Finecut